Contemporary masculinity continues to be in flux, a process it equates to being in crisis. Changing roles and identities requires a certain diversity and versatility from men’s wardrobes, an idea that continues to perplex many. Toronto/TOM* highlights included exercises in sportswear, costume design, gender bending, niche catering and status quo reinforcement. Three menswear designers showing fall-winter 2015 collections at Copenhagen Fashion Week have one thing in common. They revel in aforementioned confusion with decidedly (in)definitive outcomes.
HENRIKSILVIUS official page publicly laments: “A man’s wardrobe often lacks the potential of doing anything but to make sure he is not naked.” The alternatives presented by the brand offer an engaging if at times oddball algorithm for fashionably forging ahead. The gloved turtlenecks, the suspender tops, the pant hems on strings illustrate a degree of dynamism in current transformations that at times maybe hard for men to keep up with. To catch up via brand’s Instagram and Facebook.
Amazing that “made to be used” can still sound as a revolutionary motto in clothing. Han Kjøbenhavn displays admirable commitment to the alchemist pursuit of integration between sportswear & business casual. The lines are soft, the silhouettes – firm, the effect – formidable. Executed in mute colors, the wishlistable garments were presented in a dramatic catwalk showdown where masculinity has taken itself hostage. The white perforated head-bags served as cultural pressure points between suicidal asphyxiation forecasts and knight helmets of yore. (Shia LaBeouf!) For sure, Kjøbenhavn requires further exploration via Instagram and Facebook!
It could be the leisure/pressure of doing couture menswear that gave Jean//Phillip conceptual space wide enough to capture the heedless zeitgeist of masculinity so well. Denim jacket fronts both zipper and buttons. Athletic warmer features mesh shoulders instead of shoulder pads. These garments are trying to make up their mind. Everything appears functional and questionable at the same time. The maroon taps into the same confessional ether taken to by Joao Paulo Guedes. May all these fashion prayers be answered! Recite with Jean//Phillip at Instagram and Facebook.