First off, side note: Nicholas Nybro has one of the best logos, ever. Seriously, check it out. It’s tattoo-able, it’s so good. I’d buy something, anything just to marvel at that label in the privacy of my closet. Presenting at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Nybro transitions to retail from experience in conceptual costumes and art direction, which is a tricky divide to cross. When I read the fall-winter 2015 collection title – A Doll Story – I imagined the heady spirit of Doll’s House playwright Henrik Ibsen guiding his fellow Dane’s hand. A girl finds her late grandmother’s trunk, said the notes… Turns out this girl’s grandmother is Boy George 🙂
This fusion of club kids culture and vintage flee market values is not for the fainthearted fashionistas. The ruffled skirt morphs into a dress shirt. The perforated and transparent paper-dresses balloon into shiny gowns. When it comes to memories and dreams, oversize is often the standard. The show invite promised “…and of course something shiny!” Brilliantly, the glory of the glow befell menswear. That is a welcome departure from convention for both the real boy clothes and toy boy dolls. Note to self: can we at some point seriously talk about boy dolls, dolls for boys, dolls and boys? What could fashion contribute to discourse on toys? Side note number two: who else is mesmerized by that necklace-sausage-abacus jewelry?
Ditch the Sia-esque wigs & stagey bowler hats and the clothes appear oddly wearable. While I can’t imagine myself in these sequined-out “drapy hoodies” anywhere outside my closet wherein this review began, they make the wish-list as I begin to dream of facilitating a post-paris panel with Nicholas Nybro and my Canadian inevitably-future-friend David C. Wigley (and TBD others) engaged in an in-depth conversation on co-dependency between art, costume and fashion… Follow Nicholas Nybro and Copenhagen Fashion Week on Instagram (and give David C. Wigley some likes-love, too!)