ONE WAY FROM/TO EDEN: Jiri Kalfar AW’20

I didn’t read the press release. After following Jiri Kalfar in five cities for five seasons, no intro was necessary. I can tell you what he will do. He will be better. As the fall-winter 2020 collection runwayed in London this month, I kept going over my previous reviews:

Jiri Kalfar is “an astute navigator of both surface and depth. The facade is impeccable, but there is more than meets the eye should you choose to level with his philosophy and politics.” Check. His zero-waste, upcycled demi-couture was somehow even more flawless.

Jiri Kalfar is “a spark in the abyss of industry pressures, (de)motivating self-talk, and bewildering zeitgeist. It’s what fashion at its best can do: give one a nudge in the direction of Hope.” Check. With @diet_prada copycat-du-jour overload, it’s amazing to watch a designer consistently develop his own visual language.

“It’s going to be gold, lace, existential glitter, fabulous as an action verb, and a burning heart. It’s the latter you have to watch for on the Kalfar runway.” Check. His sparkling masks reveal brave superheros saving the (fashion) world. Inner beauty as super power.

I “complained” about his foray into menswear earlier. I cannot complain now. I can only beg for a line of credit and embark on a total look shopping spree. This masculinity displays a type of assured vulnerability only a (ballet) dancer can manifest.

This is why Jiri Kalfar is one of my three moments that made made me fall (right/back) in love with fashion in 2020. The other two arrived from Mexico and Valencia. And then I did read the press release… [continued after the images]

The inspiration for the collection is attributed to the work of choreographer Wayne McGregor and specifically his 2005 production Eden/Eden which asked: “What does it mean when you clone yourself? If I cloned myself, what are the differences in us? What is it that makes you a human being? Is it biology? Is it skin and bones, muscle? Or is it something much more spiritual, something that makes you different even if someone has the same gene pool as you?” These are great questions applicable to the artistry, design ethos and business practices across the creative industries. Meanwhile,

Jiri Kalfar continues to eden his path. 

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